Red-Eyed Tree Frogs

Red-Eyed Tree Frogs

It's All In A Name!:

Agalychnis callidryas is the Latin name for these Central American beauties. With amphibian lovers, however, you will hear/see them called red-eyes or RETF's.

Originaltiy:

These frogs can be commonly found in the lowland rainforests of Central American countries. However, they have been found as far north as Southern Mexico, and - oddly enough - Australia.

Variation:

The common bright colors associated with this frog can vary based on where the frog (or its ancestors) is originally from. The more northern regions produce brighter color frogs, while the most sought-after line comes from Nicaragua: the feet are bright orange, the eyes bright red, the body a brilliant green, and the blue stripes that mark its sides are almost purple.
Some of these frogs may have white spots on their back. While it is unclear why this happens, it shows up in many other kinds of frogs as well (especially White's tree frogs).
An albino version of this frog is also available: the Lutino Red-Eyed Tree Frog. While the body has the normal albino coloration, the eyes remain red, and the feet a pale shade of yellow. See pictures below:

Size:

Male RETF's can get up to about 2.2 inches long (from snout to vent), but most average about 2 inches. Females, on the other hand can grow to 3.5 inches.

Lifespan in Captivity:

Sadly, these frogs usually only live 3-5 years in captivity, reaching maturity after about 1.5 years.

Congratulations! It's a....??

Unfortunately, there is no good way to tell whether your frog is a male or female. If you are absolutely positive that you have a matured frog, you can measure it & guess. Otherwise, you best pick a non-gendered name!

Miscellaneous Notes:

These frogs are nocturnal, so they will be inactive during the day. They will find a nice hiding or "perching" spot on a stick or plant, or merely stick themselves to the side of the glass, tucking all their colorful extremities beneath their body.
These frogs are in the category of "look, but don't touch!" Their skin is very, very sensitive, and they get stressed easily, both of which can negatively affect their health. If you must handle them (to clean their cage or whatever), wash your hands very well before you touch them. This includes making sure you rinse alllllll the soap off! It's a good idea to wash your hands after you touch them, too, as they could potentially harm you if they have a transmittable illness (don?t worry, though, this is unlikely).
To ensure the health of your parent frogs & their future froglets, I personally don't recommend breeding these frogs until you have lots of experience. If that time comes, you should read "The Care & Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs."

Selecting Your Frog:

Always get a frog that is captive-bred!!! They are much less stressed, don't have parasites (hopefully), and will adapt to their new home much better (can you imagine going from roaming a rainforest to a 15 gallon aquarium?).
When possible, find a reptile/amphibian specialty store, a local reputable breeder, or attend a reptile/amphibian show. The caretakers of these frogs are much more knowledgeable about their needs, and thus the frogs are probably healthier (and happier!).
Physically inspect the frog:

It should not have any scratches, weird marks, or bumps on it.
White spots on its back are not a danger sign (see "Variation" section above), unless the frog shows other symptoms of illness. Your frog should come with a "guarantee" (although usually only a week or two), so that you can receive a refund if it dies in two days of you having it. If you get your frog home and it does not eat for a while, is awake in the daytime, or is very lethargic, you should probably take it back. Also, if you get your frog home and then spots appear, you should take it back immediately!
The frog should not be awake in the daytime (unless it was just fed, its cage was just cleaned, etc.).

One more important thing to keep in mind: although RETF's are insectivorous, they will eat other frogs that are smaller than their mouth. If you already have one frog, you need to get one of similar size.
On the subject of keeping different species of tree frogs together, there is one just one word to say: DON'T!!!!!!!! Tree frogs all have different habits & needs that can conflict with other species'. Even if they have the same needs, many frogs have toxic skin secretions that are harmful to frogs of other species. So please, stick with one species in one tank!

Home Sweet Home:

These frogs do best when living in pairs, or in groups of three or more.
The aquarium itself:

RETF's are arboreal, so a large, tall tank is needed. A 10-gallon tank will suit two frogs just fine, but if you spend the extra $5-10, you can get a 15- or 20-gallon tank. Think about it: would you like it better if your bedroom was the size of your closet, or the size of your family room?
While we're on the subject of price, you should shop around before purchasing your aquarium. You can get a 15-gallon tall tank for $19.99 if you look at the right pet store.
You should allow 5 gallons of tank space for one frog. (So if you have 2 frogs, you should have at least a 10-gallon tank; 3 frogs should be in a 15-gallon tank, etc.)
Since these frogs can climb & jump wherever they please, you need to have a lid. RETF's require a well-ventilated terrarium, so I would not recommend using a glass lid. You can buy a screen lid cover at any pet stores that sells reptile supplies.

The aquarium & any decorations (including the water dish) should be disinfected before use. They sit on the shelf for months sometimes, all the while collecting dust & germs from every shopper that touches them. Mix a 5% bleach solution with water to clean everything. Find a sponge or toothbrush that has never been used & scrub everything good. Rinse everything (including your cleaning instrument) thoroughly. The bleach disinfected everything, but now you need to get rid of the bleach so it won't kill your new pets. Mixing water with aquarium salts (there will be instructions on the package for the amount to use when using it to clean) & cleaning everything one more time will neutralize the bleach. Rinse everything off thoroughly once more, and you are done!
It's a good idea to set up your terrarium 2-3 weeks before introducing any frogs. This will give you a chance to monitor & adjust anything you need to get the temperature & humidity rate just right. It will also give plants time to set up.
These frogs are arboreal, which means they rarely will come down to the terrarium floor (except to feed or get water). While they are excellent, coordinated jumpers, they much prefer walking. You can use cork bark or lengths of bamboo (not live) to set up "walkways" to the top of the aquarium, or just so they have something to climb!
Substrate:

There are many important things to consider before deciding on a substrate. Remember, though, all substrates must be chemical-free, or they can kill your frog! Each one has positives & negatives to offer, so here are some of the most popular:

Potting soil:

It MUST be pesticide-free, and not contain any Styrofoam balls. The frog might choke on the balls, or if ingested, the balls can impact in your frog's digestive system. Soil provides a good base for plants to grow. You should use 2-4 inches of soil.

Moss:

Moss cannot contain any dyes that will run when it gets wet. It's best to buy this at the pet store in the reptile section to ensure it's safe. You need a lot of it to make a good base, so I recommend using this overtop of a 2-inch layer of soil for a fun jungle look.
If sphagnum moss is used, it can help keep the humidity level up.

Orchid bark or coconut casing pieces:

If this is used, you must make sure you get very, very large pieces. These frogs spring on their prey, and their tongues stick to everything. If the bark/casing is too small, they will try to swallow it, too. Just like Styrofoam balls, they could choke, or it could get impacted in their digestive system.
Zoo Med makes a product called "Repti Bark" that will help keep the humidity level up.

Paper products:

Unprinted newspaper, or plain white paper towels can be used, as well as unprinted brown paper bags.
The paper cannot have any dyes on it - they can kill your frog. While this look is very boring (and not much like the frog's original environment), it does make cleaning a lot easier.

Artificial turf:

Kind of a compromise: a more natural look, but still a little easier to clean.

Some owners prefer to have drainage below their substrate. If this is desired, large gravel can be used. Be careful the gravel is not small enough that you will have choking or impaction problems described above. As an extra precaution, make your substrate level a little thicker if you use this.

Plants:

There's no choice when it comes to having plants in your terrarium: they are a necessity when you own tree frogs. The choice of artificial or live, however, is up to you. Read on for some recommendations.

Artificial:

Artificial plants do not need water or light, they're less expensive (usually), and they won't die on you. However, the benefits stop there.
When choosing artificial plants, compare the size & sturdiness of the plant with the size of the frog. RETF's are far from the largest frogs, but they still will need plants that have wire to support the leaves (not just to attach them).
If you decide to use artificial plants, you need to inspect every centimeter of the plant to make sure that there is no wire sticking out, and everything is covered in plastic or rubber. You should do this periodically, as the plants will get a lot of use from your frogs.
When you buy the plants, they need to be washed thoroughly to remove all dust & germs from sitting on the shelf. Don't use the bleach solution above, as it will discolor the plants. Instead, either use the aquarium salts, or very hot water. Watch for signs of the dye bleeding or running. If this happens, don't use the plant, as the dye will transfer to your frog when it touches the plant later!
Once you have decided that the plant is safe, you can either stick in straight into your substrate, or use little pots.
Artificial plants are made with different materials: some smooth, others coarse or bumpy. If your frog avoids a certain plant at all costs, try replacing it with one of a different texture.

Live:

Live plants help maintain a healthy balance of oxygen & carbon dioxide within your terrarium, are more natural looking, better replicate the frog's natural environment, can contain water droplets (from your misting), which the frogs will drink from, and have less potential in causing danger or harm to your frog.
When selecting your plants, you should consider two things: (1) the size & weight of your frog. Flimsy plants or plants with skinny leaves will not hide your frog or allow it places of rest. (2) The environment your frog lives in (tropical) to that of what the plant needs to thrive. If you buy a plant that cannot withstand high temperatures, only needs watered once every two weeks, or does not like sunlight, it will die. So do some research on the plants you wish to buy.
It's important that you do research on the plant you are buying, and make sure it is safe for your frog. Some plants are toxic and will kill your frogs upon contact.
After you purchase your plant(s), you need to remove it from the dirt it came in. If they received no fertilizers or pesticides at the store (organically grown), you can simply wash the roots & leaves under running water, and place the plant in with the frogs. If the plant has received fertilizers or pesticides, you will need to "clean cycle" them. Plants that have received such chemicals absorb them & carry them up throughout their stem & leaves. If your frog sits on these leaves, it is at risk for getting chemical poisoning, and thus, dying. To clean cycle your plant(s), wash their leaves & roots, and plant it in new soil (not in with the frogs yet). Water them with the same de-chlorinated water (see "Food & Water" section below) you use for your frog's water dish. After 5-6 weeks, the chemicals that came with your plant should have grown out. You should wash the leaves & roots one more time & put them in new soil. Now (finally!) you can safely put them in your terrarium.
If you have soil as a substrate, you can put the plants right in it. If not, you can use little pots for your plants. Just scoop away all the substrate from an area, place the pot down, and push the substrate back against/slightly overtop the substrate. Additionally, if you have a gravel drainage base, you can put the plant & its roots right on the gravel, and then pour in your soil substrate.
One precaution for placement of plants: if you plant them right under your light, the leaves will get burned, turn yellow, or fall off!
If you're luck enough not to need to use a light source for heat, you will need to add a low-wattage, full-spectrum or fluorescent light bulb in order for the plants to survive.
For some good plant choices, try looking at my "Recommended Websites" page. I highly recommend using Black Jungle Terrarium Supplies. They give much information on suitable plants, including their care, & organically grow all pants to ship to your house. However, anthurium, monstera, & some types of philodendron make excellent choices, as they have broad leaves & are sturdy. If you go with the "beach" water method (see below section of "Food & Water"), some plants can be planted directly into the gravel/water section of your terrarium: Japanese evergreen, pothos, java moss, & some philodendron. If you have bamboo or cork bark for climbing, it's a good idea to choose some epiphyte plants. Epiphyte plants don't need soil to grow: they can grow in the air, and thus can be stuck on your climbing devices.

Humidity:

It's a good idea to get a hygrometer to monitor the humidity level, as it will change with the seasons.
If you read around, you'll find people who recommend a humidity level of anywhere from 30 - 90%. I recommend staying in the middle of this, around 60 - 80% for happy, healthy frogs. Remember, they come from the rainforest, which has high humidity levels, so 30% is probably not ok. 90%, on the other hand, is probably way too high for them. A good rule of thumb is if you see water drops forming on the sides of your aquarium, the humidity is too high.
Misting your tank 1-2 times a day (or less if you live in a humid climate) is usually all that is needed to keep humidity levels appropriate. Again, I recommend setting up a schedule & sticking to it: every morning you get up & every night after you feed them, or whatever. You should always use the same de-chlorinated water that you put in their water dishes (see below in the "Food & Water" section). Remember, they absorb water through their skin, so spraying them or their environment (even plants they sit on) with water that contains chemicals will affect them.
If the humidity level is not high enough, try covering up some of the screen lid. As I said earlier, RETF's like well-ventilated terrariums, so do not cover up the whole thing. If you must do this (or even if you only cover half), you should stick an airline down in the terrarium (obviously, one that is connected to a pump), which will help circulate the air.

Temperature:

RETF's need an average daytime temperature of 75-80 (24-27) degrees, and an average nighttime temperature of 70-75 (21-24) degrees. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways:

Under-tank heaters (UTH's):

I highly recommend this method. Although it is initially more expensive (around $18.00 to heat 10-20 gallons), it's worth it. Heat lamps often do not provide enough heat, so additional methods are needed. Also, under-tank heaters can stay on all day, all night, without disruption to the animals or to you.
If you use a UTH, you need to stick it in one corner of your aquarium (on the bottom). This way, if your frogs get hot, they can escape to another corner of their terrarium that won't be as hot. Be sure not to place their water dish over where the UTH is or the water will get too hot.

Water heaters:

This won't provide your whole terrarium with enough heat, so it must be used with another method. For a good description of a water heater, go to the "Recommended Websites" page & click on "The Complete Treefrog Homepage." Another danger with using this method is that you often need a lot of water, which puts your frog in danger of drowning (they can't swim, and they're not the brightest of creatures?.).

Heat lamps:

Heat lamps are relatively inexpensive (the lamp will run you about $8.00, the bulb about $4.00), but can have some hazards. They can be placed directly on the screen lid of your aquarium, or can be adjusted a couple inches/feet away if the temperature gets too high that way. However, they will burn the leaves of your plants, guaranteed. Also, depending on your climate, they may not be adequate enough to heat the terrarium to an adequate temperature.
Again, the light should be placed on the corner of the lid so that the frogs can escape the "hot side" of the terrarium if they want to. Also, be sure not to place their water dish under the light, or you will have to re-fill it about 6 times a day.
Another drawback to this method of heating is that you will have to turn off the light at night, and the temperature will drop too dramatically (see the "Lighting" section below).

If you live in a higher temp. area yourself, cooling may also be needed in the summer.

Lighting:

UVB rays are not essential for these frogs, so it's ok if you don't have a spotlight on them. In fact, they don't much enjoy the bright light, so I would recommend using a low-wattage bulb in the daytime.
RETF's need a regular photo (light) period to simulate day & night times. If your light isn't the source of heat, I recommend using a timer on your spotlight so you don't forget to turn it on or off.
Since these frogs are nocturnal, they will come out instantly when the lights are off, and begin their search for food or water. Amphibians and reptiles cannot see the red light spectrum, so you can use a red light bulb at night so that you can still observe their antics! Your local pet store will sell these for about $4.00 in the reptile section.

Cleaning & Maintenance:

It's a good idea to set up a regular cleaning schedule & stick to it. If you clean the tank every Wednesday after you get home from work (or whatever), you're more likely to remember.
The water dish should be emptied & rinsed every 2-3 days. Any bacteria or whatever allowed to sit in the water dish will be absorbed into the frog. It's a good idea to take the water dish out & scrub it with an un-used toothbrush or sponge about once a month, or anytime it looks icky.
Once a week you should "freshen" your substrate: kind of stick your hands in & just stir it around or fluff it back up, bringing the bottom layers to the top & the top to the bottom. This will prevent mold from growing in it.
The substrate should be changed every couple of months or so.
All the misting will probably leave spots on the glass, so you can wipe it off whenever you feel necessary, but only use water & a dry (plain, white) paper towel.
If you see a white film forming on the glass, it's from mineral deposits from the chlorine in your water. Either let the water sit longer before using it, or buy something from the pet store that you can add to the water to remove the chemicals.

Food & Water:

Red-eyed tree frogs are insectivorous amphibians: they eat insects! Crickets are a good staple diet, but remember, variety is the spice of life! & it will provide your frog with a more balanced, healthy diet. Flies, moths, spiders, & grasshoppers will all be happily eaten by your frog. Additionally, moths seem to be a favorite of red-eye's & other leaf frogs (they can be collected, or "grown" from wax worms). If desired, you can place small dishes in the bottom of the terrarium & place mealworms or maggots in them. However, make sure you do this at night when you normally feed them, otherwise the insects might escape uneaten & mature & repopulate in your frog's home! Wax worms and earthworms are sometimes recommended as food, but they're actually not very nutritious.

Please remember that any insect you collect from the wild has the potential to carry parasites, disease, and pesticides to your frog, so be careful!

It's important that you choose your crickets wisely. Your frog will eat whatever is smaller than it's head (basically, whatever it can fit into it's mouth). If you try to feed a froglet or juvenile very large crickets, they won't eat, or they could choke. If you feed an adult pin-head crickets, you will go broke trying to keep it's hunger satisfied. Ask a pet shop employee if you are unsure about which size to buy.
Froglets (baby frogs) should be fed daily with pin-head crickets, fruit flies, or aphids; juveniles should be fed daily with medium crickets; adults should be fed 3 crickets every other day. These are guidelines, but remember that all frogs (just like people) are different. If your frog looks fat, feed it less crickets (but not less often). If your frog looks skinny, feed it more crickets (but not more often).
**Be sure to read the "Crickets" page for important information on them!**
Once or twice a week, you should dust your crickets with a powdered vitamin supplement. The most common illness of captive amphibians & reptiles is a bone disease caused by lack of essential vitamins. Dusting with this powder will prevent this.
Amphibians "drink" by soaking up water through their skin. However, RETF can NOT swim! Make sure the water dish you place in your terrarium is not too big: when your frog is sitting in it, water should not come up over its nose.
Water should be added daily, and changed every other day. If you have a tall aquarium, or don't feel like pulling the whole water dish out, you can use a turkey baster.
Instead of a water dish, some owners use a "beach" method in their terrarium. If you do this, you will need to have the large-sized gravel discussed in the "Substrate" section above. Put a small layer of gravel on one side of the tank. This will be the water area. If you have a piece of cork bark or clean, safe (no chemicals, dyes, or sharp edges) stone, put it vertically next to your pile. Now fill in the other side of the cork bark or stone with a thicker layer of gravel, followed by your choice of substrate. It's hard to describe in words, but the cork bark or stone should be like a dam: it should prevent the thick layer of gravel & substrate from going into the water area. You should use java moss, or some other water-loving ground cover (meaning, you get a clump, plant it, & it will spread over everything like mad) to place it over all the gravel. Even though they're large pieces of gravel not likely to be swallowed, it's a good precaution to take. Now you can pour water into the side with only the small layer of gravel & plants. Again, make sure it's not too deep, and that the cork bark/stone isn't too high for the frog to climb out of the water & over the top back onto "land." For a better description of this, plus a method you can use to heat the water, go to my "Recommended Websites" page & click on "The Complete Treefrog Homepage" link.

"Back to homepage"