It's All In A Name:
- Litoria caerulea is the Latin name for these plump frogs. The common name, however, is White's Tree Frogs, and they are sometimes called 'dumpy frogs' because of their tendency to be obese.
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Originaltiy:
- These frogs come from rain forests or temperate forests of countries such as Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, Indonesia, and the Torres Straits. There is some archaeological evidence, however, that originally these frogs were from South America, and have migrated over time to these places.
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Variation:- The common color of this frog is a vibrant jade green, and their skin is rubbery smooth. Obese frogs, however, will have folds of skin all over.
- Some of these frogs may have white spots on their back. While it is unclear why this happens, it shows up in many other kinds of frogs as well. See the "Selecting Your Frog" section for when these spots should be considered warning signs of illness.
- In addition to the vibrant green common in Whites, there is also a "Blue Phase White's Tree Frog" (sometimes just called "Blue White's Tree Frog"), having a turqious to a calming blue coloration. See picture below:
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Size:- Female White's can get up to 5 � inches long (from snout to vent), but most average about 4-� -5. Males, on the other hand, grow only to 4 inches.
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Lifespan in Captivity:
- These frogs are so adjusted to captivity that they have been known to make it to 21 years, but the average lifespan is around 15 years (this is something you should consider when choosing this breed). These frogs reach maturity after about 1 year.
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Congratulations! It's a....??
- Unfortunately, there is no good way to tell whether your frog is a male or female. If you are absolutely positive that you have a matured, full-grown frog, you can measure it & guess since females are bigger. However, size is relative to the specific strain of White's you have, so this is not very reliable.
- Additionally, only males will call. The call is a very deep almost barking sound, and if you observe your frog calling, you will see its throat swell up before and after. However, just because you haven't ever heard your frog call does not make it a female. Also, females can vocalize when they are displeased with something (you handling them, another frog sitting on them, etc.), but it is more of a squawking sound. See below in the "Miscellaneous Notes" section for more detail about this.
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Miscellaneous Notes:
- It should be noted that these frogs have the ability to change color (not like a chameleon, though), and often do so multiple times a day. When inactive, White's & Blue White's often take on an olive or brown coloration, so do not be alarmed if you see one like this at the pet store...it's just resting!!
- This frog is very hardy, and is a great tree frog for beginners!
- White's tree frogs shed their skin as they grow, but not in the same sense that reptiles do. Their outer layer is very moist and thin, and as they grow, it will need to come off so they can get bigger. Your frog will start doing this weird movement that looks like it's coughing (even putting its front legs up by its mouth). It is getting the skin off its body and eating it (it provides the frog with nutrition). So do not be alarmed when you see this happening!
- These frogs are nocturnal, so they will be inactive during the day. They will find a nice hiding or "perching" spot on a stick or plant, merely stick themselves to the side of the glass, or bury themselves under moss or hollowed logs.
- If you must handle your frog, it is important that you wash your hands very well before you touch them. This includes making sure you rinse alllllll the soap off! It's a good idea to wash your hands after you touch them, too, as they could potentially harm you if they have a transmittable illness (don't worry, though, this is unlikely).
- To ensure the health of your parent frogs & their future froglets, I personally don't recommend breeding these frogs until you have lots of experience. If that time comes, you should read "The Care & Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs."
- As I said in the "Congratulations!" section, the males of these species often call. Anytime they think they hear another White's calling, they'll get at it, too. This can be anything from a loud car muffler going by to something on the TV. For my little man, what starts as a quiet wok wok turns gradually into WOK! WOK! WOK! that can be heard across the house. If you go into the room, chances are the frog will stop. However, if you figure out which frog it was, and you notice that its throat sack is puffed up, you can assume (with a very high level of certainty) it is a male.
- On the subject of keeping different species of tree frogs together, there is one just one word to say: DON'T!!!!!!!! Tree frogs all have different habits & needs that can conflict with other species'. Even if they have the same needs, many frogs have toxic skin secretions that are harmful to frogs of other species. So please, stick with one species in one tank!
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Selecting Your Frog:
- Always get a frog that is captive-bred!!! They are much less stressed, don't have parasites (hopefully), and will adapt to their new home much better (can you imagine going from roaming a rainforest to a 20-gallon aquarium?).
- When possible, find a reptile/amphibian specialty store, a local reputable breeder, or attend a reptile/amphibian show. The caretakers of these frogs are much more knowledgeable about their needs, and thus the frogs are probably healthier (and happier!).
- Physically inspect the frog:
- It should not have any scratches, weird marks, or bumps on it.
- White spots on its back are not a danger sign (see "Variation" section above), unless the frog shows other symptoms of illness. Your frog should come with at least a 1-day "guarantee," so that you can receive a refund if it dies in two hours of you having it. If you get your frog home and it is always awake in the daytime (as in, all day, every day), or is very lethargic (as in, it barely moves around the cage, even to get water or food), you should probably take it back. Also, if you get your frog home and then spots appear, you should take it back immediately!
- If you get your frog home and find it's not eating right away, try not to be alarmed. It may take a few days for the frog to acclimate to its new environment.
- One more important thing to keep in mind: although White's are insectivorous, they will eat other frogs that are smaller than their mouth. If you already have one frog, you need to get one of similar size.
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Home Sweet Home:
- These frogs are content living by themselves, or in groups, with frogs of similar size.
- The aquarium itself:
- White's are arboreal, so a large, tall tank is needed. Looking around, you will find a high degree of variation in recommended tank size. Recommnedations for 1 frog span anywhere from 1 frog in a 20-gallon tank, to 1 frog in a 30-gallon tank. Recommendations for 2 frogs or more span anywhere from 2 frogs in a 29-gallon to 2 frogs in a 40-gallon. Some people also recommend adding 10 gallons per additional frog in your tank. Remember, though, that bigger is always better!! Think about it: would you like it better if your bedroom was the size of your closet, or the size of your family room?
- Since these frogs can climb & jump wherever they please, you need to have a lid. Tree frog's require a well-ventilated terrarium to maintain good health, so I would not recommend using a glass lid. You can buy a screen lid cover at any pet stores that sells reptile supplies.
- I know I just said that these frogs are arboreal in nature, and they are. There are exceptions, though. Sometimes the frogs like to bask under their heat lamp, so I will find them sitting on top of the hollow half-log that's in their tank. It's important that objects are placed under the lamp for them to do this. Even arranging it so that a stick is leaning from the bottom of one corner to the top of an opposite corner will work out great.
- The aquarium & any decorations (including the water dish) should be disinfected before use. They sit on the shelf for months sometimes, all the while collecting dust & germs from every shopper that touches them. Mix a 5% bleach solution with water to clean everything. Find a sponge or toothbrush that has never been used & scrub everything good. Rinse everything (including your cleaning instrument) thoroughly. The bleach disinfected everything, but now you need to get rid of the bleach so it won't kill your new pets. Mixing water with aquarium salts (there will be instructions on the package for the amount to use when using it to clean) & cleaning everything one more time will neutralize the bleach. Rinse everything off thoroughly once more, and you are done!
- It's a good idea to set up your terrarium 2-3 weeks before introducing any frogs. This will give you a chance to monitor & adjust anything you need to get the temperature & humidity rate just right. It will also give plants time to set up.
- While these frogs are excellent jumpers (they can jump up to 4 feet at one time!), they much prefer walking. You can use cork bark or lengths of bamboo (not live) to set up "walkways" to the top of the aquarium, or just so they have something to climb!
- I bought one of those hollow logs (it looks like they took a log, hollowed it out, then cut it in half) sold at the pet stores as reptile shelters. I rigged it so it's not sitting on the bottom of the tank for them to crawl under, but so it's vertical against one of the sides of the tank. They love going down in it to hide & sleep all day! In fact, I had to buy a bigger one because they were pushing each other out of it!
- Substrate:
- There are many important things to consider before deciding on a substrate. Remember, though, all substrates must be chemical-free, or they can kill your frog! Each one has positives & negatives to offer, so here are some of the most popular:
- Potting soil:
- It MUST be pesticide-free, and not contain any Styrofoam balls. The frog might choke on the balls, or if ingested, the balls can impact in your frog's digestive system. Soil provides a good base for plants to grow. You should use 2-4 inches of soil.
- Moss:
- Moss cannot contain any dyes that will run when it gets wet. It's best to buy this at the pet store in the reptile section to ensure it's safe. You need a lot of it to make a good base, so I recommend using this overtop of a 2-inch layer of soil for a fun jungle look.
- If sphagnum moss is used, it can help keep the humidity level up.
- Orchid bark or coconut casing pieces:
- If this is used, you must make sure you get very, very large pieces. These frogs spring on their prey, and their tongues stick to everything. If the bark/casing is too small, they will try to swallow it, too. Just like Styrofoam balls, they could choke, or it could get impacted in their digestive system.
- Zoo Med makes a product called "Repti Bark" that will help keep the humidity level up.
- Paper products:
- Unprinted newspaper, or plain white paper towels can be used, as well as unprinted brown paper bags.
- The paper cannot have any dyes on it - they can kill your frog. While this look is very boring (and not much like the frog's original environment), it does make cleaning a lot easier.
- Artificial turf:
- Kind of a compromise: a more natural look, but still a little easier to clean.
- Plants:
- There's no choice when it comes to having plants in your terrarium: they are a necessity when you own tree frogs. The choice of artificial or live, however, is up to you. Read on for some recommendations.
- Artificial:
- Artificial plants do not need water or light, they're less expensive (usually), and they won't die on you. However, the benefits stop there.
- When choosing artificial plants, compare the size & sturdiness of the plant with the size of the frog. White's are very stocky and will need plants that have wire to support the leaves (not just to attach them).
- If you decide to use artificial plants, you need to inspect every centimeter of the plant to make sure that there is no wire sticking out, and everything is covered in plastic or rubber. You should do this periodically, as the plants will get a lot of use from your frogs.
- When you buy the plants, they need to be washed thoroughly to remove all dust & germs from sitting on the shelf. Don't use the bleach solution above, as it will discolor the plants. Instead, either use the aquarium salts, or very hot water. Watch for signs of the dye bleeding or running. If this happens, don't use the plant, as the dye will transfer to your frog when it touches the plant later!
- Once you have decided that the plant is safe, you can either stick in straight into your substrate, or use little pots.
- Artificial plants are made with different materials: some smooth, others coarse or bumpy. If your frog avoids a certain plant at all costs, try replacing it with one of a different texture.
- Live:
- Live plants help maintain a healthy balance of oxygen & carbon dioxide within your terrarium, are more natural looking, better replicate the frog's natural environment, can contain water droplets (from your misting), which the frogs will drink from, and have less potential in causing danger or harm to your frog.
- When selecting your plants, you should consider two things: (1) the size & weight of your frog. Flimsy plants or plants with skinny leaves will not hide your frog or allow it places of rest. (2) he environment your frog lives in (tropical) compared to that of what the plant needs to thrive. If you buy a plant that cannot withstand high temperatures, only needs watered once every two weeks, or does not like sunlight, it will die. So do some research on the plants you wish to buy.
- It's important that you do research on the plant you are buying, and make sure it is safe for your frog. Some plants are toxic and will kill your frogs upon contact.
- After you purchase your plant(s), you need to remove it from the dirt it came in. If they received no fertilizers or pesticides at the store (organically grown), you can simply wash the roots & leaves under running water, and place the plant in with the frogs. If the plant has received fertilizers or pesticides, you will need to "clean cycle" them. Plants that have received such chemicals absorb them & carry them up throughout their stem & leaves. If your frog sits on these leaves, it is at risk for getting chemical poisoning, and thus, dying. To clean cycle your plant(s), wash their leaves & roots, and plant it in new soil (not in with the frogs yet). Water them with the same de-chlorinated water (see "Food & Water" section below) you use for your frog's water dish. After 5-6 weeks, the chemicals that came with your plant should have grown out. You should wash the leaves & roots one more time & put them in new soil. Now (finally!) you can safely put them in your terrarium.
- Make sure that the soil you use contains no fertilizers or pesticides. Also, it cannot have any hunks of sutff in it (such as styrofoam balls). Organic dirt can contain chunks of igenous (volcanic) rock, known as Perlite, but this is also an unsafe choice. Any hunks of something can be accidentally swallowed by your frog and can possibly get impacted in its digestive system (read: your frog could die). Just explain your requirements to someone at your local nursery or home/garden center, and they'll point you in the direction of some just plain old bagged dirt. It's pretty cheap, as you can usually get a 20lb. bag for about $2.00.
- If you have soil as a substrate, you can put the plants right in it. If not, you can use little pots for your plants. Just scoop away all the substrate from an area, place the pot down, and push the substrate back against/slightly overtop the substrate.
- One precaution for placement of plants: if you plant them right under your light, the leaves will get burned, turn yellow, or fall off!
- If you're lucky enough not to need to use a light source for heat, you will need to add a low-wattage, full-spectrum or fluorescent light bulb in order for the plants to survive.
- For some good plant choices, try looking at my "Recommended Websites" page. I highly recommend using Black Jungle Terrarium Supplies. They give much information on suitable plants, including their care, & organically grow all pants to ship to your house.
- Anthurium, sansevieria, monstera, & some types of philodendron make excellent choices, as they have broad leaves & are sturdy. If you have bamboo or cork bark for climbing, it's a good idea to choose some epiphyte plants. Epiphyte plants don't need soil to grow: they can grow in the air, and thus can be stuck on your climbing devices.
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Humidity:
- It's a good idea to get a hygrometer to monitor the humidity level, as it will change with the seasons.
- White's tree frogs don't need that high of a humidity level, only around 50-60% for happy, healthy frogs. A good rule of thumb is if you see water drops forming on the sides of your aquarium, the humidity is too high.
- Misting your tank 1-2 times a day (or less if you live in a humid climate) is usually all that is needed to keep humidity levels appropriate. Again, I recommend setting up a schedule & sticking to it: every morning you get up & every night after you feed them, or whatever. You should always use the same de-chlorinated water that you put in their water dishes (see below in the "Food & Water" section). Remember, they absorb water through their skin, so spraying them or their environment (even plants they sit on) with water that contains chemicals will affect them.
- If the humidity level is not high enough, try covering up some of the screen lid. As I said earlier, well-ventilated terrariums help maintain good health, so do not cover up the whole thing. If you must do this (or even if you only cover half), you should stick an airline down in the terrarium (obviously, one that is connected to a pump), which will help circulate the air.
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Temperature:
- For White's tree frogs, an average daytime temperature of 80-86 (27-30) degrees, and an average nighttime temperature of 68-74 (20-24) degrees are recommended. In my aquarium, however, I have two frogs that seem to have totally different needs. On one side of the tank (where the temperature reaches about 85), right under the heat lamp is where one frog loves to hang out during the day. On the other side of the tank (where the temperature is only around 70) is where the other one will not budge from. So, play with the temperature a little, and try doing what I did: having a heat source on one side, so they can figure out where they are comfortable, then observe them & adjust from there.
- If you live in a higher temp. area yourself, cooling may also be needed in the summer.
- In general, though, heating can be accomplished in a variety of ways:
- Under-tank heaters (UTH's):
- I highly recommend this method. Although it is initially more expensive (around $18.00 to heat 10-20 gallons), it's worth it. Heat lamps often do not provide enough heat, so additional methods are needed. Also, under-tank heaters can stay on all day, all night, without disruption to the animals or to you.
- If you use a UTH, you need to stick it in one corner of your aquarium (on the bottom). This way, if your frogs get hot, they can escape to another corner of their terrarium that won't be as hot. Be sure not to place their water dish over where the UTH is or the water will get too hot.
- One disadvantage to UTH's that is often pointed out is that it's unnatural for the frog to seak heat from the bottom of the cage. II do choose to use UTH's, however, because I feel that heat rises in the tank, and will make it to the top anyway. Plus, I have to use a heat lamp to get the tank hot enough, so if the frogs want, there is still a heat source from above.
- Heat lamps:
- Heat lamps are relatively inexpensive (the lamp will run you about $8.00, the bulb about $4.00), but can have some hazards. They can be placed directly on the screen lid of your aquarium, or can be adjusted a couple inches/feet away if the temperature gets too high that way. However, they can burn the leaves of your plants. Also, depending on your climate, they may not be adequate enough to heat the terrarium to an adequate temperature.
- Again, the light should be placed on the corner of the lid so that the frogs can escape the "hot side" of the terrarium if they want to. Also, be sure not to place their water dish under the light, or you will have to re-fill it about 6 times a day.
- Another drawback to this method of heating is that you will have to turn off the light at night, and the temperature will drop too dramatically (see the "Lighting" section below).
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Lighting:
- Some hobbyists say that UVB light is not essential for amphibians, while others say it is. Your frog certainly will not die without UVB light; however, UVB can be beneficial in maintaining your frog's health. Since White's seem to not mind handling, here is what I do:
- On sunny, warm (80-90 degrees) days, I will take my frogs out & sit on the deck & let them bask in the sun for a while. If it's really hot, make sure you don't fry your frogs by keeping them out too long, and make sure they have a full water dish in the tank when you put them back.
- If you have a smaller tank, you can take them outside in it. Leave the top off so the sun penetrates, but be sure to keep an eye on them!
- If you do take your frog(s) outside, do NOT set them on the grass or anything else that might have dangerous chemicals on it. Also be sure that there are no run-aways.
- Tree frog's need a regular photo (light) period to simulate day & night times. If your light isn't the source of heat, I recommend using a timer on your spotlight so you don't forget to turn it on or off.
- Since these frogs are nocturnal, they will come out instantly when the lights are off, and begin their search for food or water. Amphibians and reptiles cannot see the red light spectrum, so you can use a red light bulb at night so that you can still observe their antics! Your local pet store will sell these for about $4.00 in the reptile section.
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Cleaning & Maintenance:
- It's a good idea to set up a regular cleaning schedule & stick to it. If you clean the tank every Wednesday after you get home from work (or whatever), you're more likely to remember.
- The water dish should be emptied & rinsed every day, or every other day at a MAXIMUM. Any bacteria or whatever allowed to sit in the water dish will be absorbed into the frog. It's a good idea to take the water dish out & scrub it with an un-used toothbrush or sponge a few times a week. White's love their water dishes, and they often will drag dirt and moss into them. Also, you will often find they poop in them, so change their water often!!
- Once a week you should "freshen" your substrate: kind of stick your hands in & just stir it around or fluff it back up, bringing the bottom layers to the top & the top to the bottom. This will prevent mold from growing in it.
- The substrate should be changed every couple of months or so.
- All the misting will probably leave spots on the glass, so you can wipe it off whenever you feel necessary, but only use water & a dry (plain, white) paper towel.
- If you see a white film forming on the glass, it's from mineral deposits from the chlorine in your water. Either let the water sit longer before using it, or buy something from the pet store that you can add to the water to remove the chemicals.
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Food & Water:
- White's tree frogs are insectivorous amphibians: they eat insects! Crickets are a good staple diet, but remember, variety is the spice of life! & it will provide your frog with a more balanced, healthy diet. Flies, moths, beetles, locusts, cockroaches, spiders, & grasshoppers will all be happily eaten by your frog. If desired, you can place small dishes in the bottom of the terrarium & place mealworms or maggots in them. However, make sure you do this at night when you normally feed them, otherwise the insects might escape uneaten & mature & repopulate in your frog's home! Wax worms and earthworms are sometimes recommended as food, but they're actually not very nutritious. Also, in my experience, earthworms and mealworms do not move around enough to get noticed by my frogs, so they often are ignored. If you chose to feed them something like this, watch for them to eat it.
- It's important to note that any insects you collect (that is, anything you don't buy from the pet store) must be pesticide-free!! Insects from inside your house are not a good choice, as they haev often landed on/crawled on surfaces with cleaning chemicals or harmful residues from your hands, food, etc. Insects from outside must be collected from an area that doesn't use pesticide. Just because you don't use chemicals on your lawn doesn't mean that insects from your grass are OK. Flying insects can pick up pesticides from anywhere, and chemicals can run to your lawn with rain water from your neighbor's lawn. Please be careful!
- These frogs are voracious eaters with a tendency toward gluttony. While your frog is supposed to be insectivorous, it will eat smaller frogs in your aquarium. It's important that you not place a newly acquired froglet in with your adult White's. Also, if your frog gets big enough, some will eat pinkie mice. Remember, though, pinkies are very high in fat and not much else (plus they are cute little baby mice), so do this rarely if you chose, if at all..
- It's important that you choose your crickets wisely. Your frog will eat whatever is smaller than it's head (basically, whatever it can fit into it's mouth). If you try to feed a froglet or juvenile very large crickets, they won't eat, or they could choke. If you feed an adult pin-head crickets, you will go broke trying to keep it's hunger satisfied. Ask a pet shop employee if you are unsure about which size to buy.
- Froglets (baby frogs) should be fed daily with pin-head crickets, fruit flies, or aphids; juveniles should be fed daily with 1-2 medium crickets, & adults should be fed 3 large crickets every 2-3 days.
- These are guidelines, but remember that all frogs (just like people) are different. White's tree frogs have a high tendency to be obese (check out the picture below)! Here's how you can tell: the little circles on the sides of its head are your frog's ears. If you look closely, you'll notice ridges above the top of the circle. If its skin from above these ridges folds over the ears, your frog is getting too fat! You need to feed your frog less crickets, but not less often. If, on the other hand, you can barely make out these ridges, or its body seems very slender (it should have a nice round shape, as in the pictures below), you should feed it more crickets (but not more often). If your frog gets too fat, it won't be able to be active, and it can actually get a fatty liver disease. Also, the skin folds can actually hang over its eyes and ears, preventing it from seeing.
| Obese White's: |
Healthy Blue Phase White's: |
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- **Be sure to read the "Crickets" page for important information on them!**
- Once or twice a week, you should dust your crickets with a powdered vitamin supplement. The most common illness of captive amphibians & reptiles is a bone disease caused by lack of essential vitamins. Dusting with this powder will prevent this.
- Amphibians "drink" by soaking up water through their skin. However, White's tree frogs can NOT swim! Make sure the water dish you place in your terrarium is not too big: when your frog is sitting in it, water should not come up over its nose.
- These frogs do love their water dishes, though. As soon as the light clicks off at nighttime, I find both of my frogs completely sprawled out (legs stretched in every direction!) in their dish. For this reason, it's important that you get a roomy water dish. The bigger your frog grows, or the more frogs you have, the wider (not deeper - remember, they drown easily) dish you need to get.
- If you have a tall aquarium, or don't feel like pulling the whole water dish out, you can use a turkey baster to change your frog's water.
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